Wiring outlets together using the device terminals, instead of a pigtail splice as shown in the next diagram, can create a weakest link problem. Using this method, any break or malfunction at one outlet will likely cause all the outlets that follow to fail as well. This diagram shows the wiring for multiple receptacles in an arrangement that connects each individually to the source.
All wires are spliced to a pigtail which is connected to each device separate from all the others in the row. This wiring allows for source voltage at each outlet independent of the others in the circuit. Here 3-wire cable is run from a double-pole circuit breaker providing an independent volts to two sets of multiple outlets.
The neutral wire from the circuit is shared by both sets. This wiring is commonly used in a 20 amp kitchen circuit where two appliance feeds are needed, such as for a refrigerator and a microwave in the same location. In this diagram multiple ground fault circuit interrupter receptacles are wired together using pigtails to connect the source. Two-wire cable is run between the gfci's, and the hot and neutral wires from the source are spliced to the line terminals at each device.
The load terminals are not used and each device provides its own, single-location protection. Here a gfci receptacle is added at the end of a row of duplex receptacles for single-location protection. The first outlet is connected to the source and 2-wire cable runs from box to box. All wires are spliced with a pigtail at the devices to pass current to the next.
Much more common than series circuits are those wired in parallel—including most household branch circuits powering light fixtures, outlets, and appliances.
A parallel circuit is also a closed circuit where the current divides into two or more paths before coming back together to complete the full circuit. Here, the wiring is configured so that each device is in constant contact with the main circuit pathway. Individual devices merely "tap into" the main circuit loop, much the way freeway ramps allows cars to exist and enter a freeway without interrupting the main highway. Most standard volt household circuits in your home are or should be parallel circuits.
Outlets, switches, and light fixtures are wired in such a way that the hot and neutral wires maintain a continuous circuit pathway independent from the individual devices that draw their power from the circuit.
Sometimes this continuous pathway is created by "pigtailing" into the circuit wires in order to power an outlet or light fixture the pigtails are the exit and entrance ramps for the current flow.
Other times, the design of the device creates the continuous ongoing pathway. A standard outlet receptacle, for example, has a metal strip connecting tab between the pairs of screw terminals that assures that the pathway to the next outlet is maintained.
If the receptacle goes bad, the connecting tab on the device assures that the current flow continues to the next outlet in the circuit. One household example where series wiring is useful in when a single GFCI ground-fault circuit interrupter receptacle is used to protect other standard receptacles located "downstream" of the GFCI.
A GFCI receptacle has screw terminals labeled "line," as well as screw terminals labeled "load. However, should the GFCI go bad, then all the connected downstream outlets will also cease to function. Is it acceptable to wire receptacles in both parallel and in series on the same circuit?
I would like to branch out into a wall of serial receptacles, then continue from the originating receptacle box, wired in parallel, until I may reach another branch wall to wire serially, then on from that junction receptacle, finally ending in series, to avoid doubling back from the farthest receptacle on each branch wall. Btw I did not see a comment near the end of your article addressing Dennis' question whether to count the yoke as two conductors; I have read that in places.
On by Don - pigtails used in parallel receptacle wiring don't add to box size required. I believe the pigtails are not counted as they originate in the box and don't leave it.
So, 2 less wire allowances. On - by mod - what's really the difference between receptacles wired in series vs in parallel. Dennis Thank you for your comment. Let me elaborate slightly and let's see if we can clarify the article above on this page to make more sense. When electrical receptacles are wired in series as described above on this page, then a failure in any connector at the electrical receptacle will result in loss of power not just at that receptacle but in all of the ones that are logically or electrically Downstream from that point.
However if the electrician wires the electrical receptacles in paralle l, then even if a connection at an individual electrical receptacle itself anywhere in that series should fail, the circuit remains active and the other electrical receptacles on the circuit will retain power. So you can see that "in parallel" and "daisy-chaining" or "in-series" wired receptacles are not equivalent.
In my experience, even though there are some advantages to wiring in parallel, I rarely see that done in residential electrical wiring. I think the reason is that there is more labor involved and there are more wires and connectors in the electrical box which can result in crowding if the box is not large enough. I will welcome your further comments, criticism, or suggestions.
On by Dennis - Seems odd to me to use the terms "parallel" and "series". In the one called "parallel" the junction point is inside of a wire nut.
But electrically speaking both methods are parallel. Just because part of the conduction path is through the metal portion of the receptacle does not make it a series connection. It is still parallel, so not really a good choice of terms to call the two methods series or parallel.. Casey Thank you for the follow-up it would be helpful to other readers.
It's also worth noting that we run into the same problem of shared neutral wires on a fci's or arc fault circuit interrupters causing malfunctions. So those too should have their own separate neutral circuit. Thank you for your prompt response. I will now add circuit numbers, as you suggest, for the benefit of the next unsuspecting person who works on this installation.
Casey Thank you for the interesting question. I haven't seen a standard for keeping neutral wires separately identified through a conduit. If I were doing it I would simply tape little numbers on each end and each electrical box or junction box where they appear.
You've probably seen that you can purchase a little notebook of wire identification letters and numbers that are quite convenient, small and clearly printed and durable. An example of a product that I've used for many years is the. I have two GFI protected circuits distributed in the same conduit runs.
The neutrals need to be kept independent for the GFI sampling to operate correctly. I have tried to install the new outlet, using the screws as recommended, rather than the stab connections, and cannot make the top half work on the switch. Is current the same in series? Is voltage the same in series? Does voltage stay the same in parallel? What is voltage in a series circuit?
Is voltage the same in series capacitors? Is charge the same in parallel? Can you put capacitors in parallel? Do capacitors in series or parallel store more energy?
How do you know if a series capacitor is parallel? What happens if capacitor is connected in series? How do you know if a series resistor is parallel?
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