NC State Extension no garantiza la exactitud del texto traducido. English is the controlling language of this page. To the extent there is any conflict between the English text and the translation, English controls.
Clicking on the translation link activates a free translation service to convert the page to Spanish. As with any Internet translation, the conversion is not context-sensitive and may not translate the text to its original meaning. NC State Extension does not guarantee the accuracy of the translated text. Sudden changes in soil moisture can cause concentric cracks to form around the top of tomato fruits.
Growing tomatoes in the coastal South is always a gamble. Throughout the summer you play the odds against insects, diseases, heat, or drought ruining your crop. Until a few weeks ago, growing conditions this season had been nearly ideal, resulting in some of the healthiest tomato plants I have seen in years. Recent heavy rains are likely to change this trend, raising the stakes against a bumper crop this season.
Side splitting and cracking up are terms you want to hear in reference to a joke you just made, not about your tomatoes. Heavy rain, especially when preceded by dry weather, is the leading cause of fruit cracking and splitting in tomatoes. This type of damage is most likely to occur as tomatoes begin to ripen and you are anxiously anticipating harvest, though green fruit can be effected as well.
Cracking and splitting occur when rapid changes in soil moisture levels cause fruits to expand quicker than the tomato skin can grow. There are two different patterns this damage may take. Symptoms and causes Biology Control. What is the problem? It tends to occur early in summer, declining as the nights become warmer in late summer. Russeting a rough skin surface and superficial marks are caused by variable temperatures, whereas cracking and splitting are due to fluctuations in soil moisture.
Water supply can be especially variable in growing bags and pots, and this requires regular monitoring both in the greenhouse and outside. Outdoors, variations in rainfall may cause damage. Although watering in dry spells will help, in periods of heavy rain there is no remedy for the damaging effects of flooding, which often leads to fruit splitting and cracking.
Prompt harvesting of fruits may reduce losses. Tomato fruits need warmth and moisture to swell and ripen. At the end of the growing season ripening will slow down and fruits are best picked and ripened indoors in a warm dark place. At this time of year the nights are cool and day length is short with the sun lower in the sky. It is difficult to avoid conditions that lead to uneven ripening and fruit splitting or cracking. The increasing humidity as autumn approaches may also promote fungal moulds, especially grey mould Botrytis cinerea.
Splits and cracks will allow such fungi to enter and infect the tomato fruits. Links Grey mould. Control Non-chemical control In the greenhouse or conservatory, control temperature and sunlight levels carefully to avoid extremes, using combinations of heating, ventilation and white greenhouse paint as appropriate.
A good maximum-minimum temperature thermometer is essential. Poor quality greenhouses often lack adequate ventilation arrangements and temporary removal of glass panes during summer can help remedy this lack. Polythene tunnels have few options for decreasing the temperature except using extra shading or installing wind-up sides to increase ventilation.
Managing temperature is almost impossible for tomatoes grown outdoors. Feed regularly to maintain high soil fertility. Special tomato fertilisers have high levels of potassium to encourage good fruit development. Water to maintain a constant level of soil moisture. This is especially important when growing in growing bags, pots or other containers. Tomatoes like a steady supply of water and need about an inch of water per week during the summer.
Rain will contribute to this amount, so you can water your tomatoes less when the forecast brings summer showers. During dry weather, water the plant every two to three days.
A drip hose or soaker hose will bring tomatoes with a slow, steady supply of water. Both drip irrigation and soaker hoses deliver water to the plant's roots, where it most benefits the plant.
Mulch helps plants retain moisture. Whether it consists of wood chips, bark, straw, pine needles, or plastic, mulch can help your tomatoes absorb just the right amount of water. As heavy feeders, tomatoes sometimes need the extra nutrients in fertilizer. The best fertilizer for tomatoes depends on the elements unique to your soil and whether your soil lacks nitrogen, phosphorus, or potassium. When it comes to preventing splitting, however, too much nitrogen fertilizer can actually cause your tomatoes to grow too fast and split.
You can pick tomatoes as soon as they turn slightly pink. This change in color marks the breaker stage, when tomatoes have reached their full size. Because tomatoes will continue to ripen even off the vine at this point, you can pick them and keep them at room temperature ideally between 70 and 75 degrees F till you're ready to eat them.
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